If you’ve ever gone to a drag race in the US you’re familiar with the Christmas Tree Lights. At the starting line the racer looks at a series of colored lights that light up sequentially from top to bottom. When the top light lights the driver gets ready and starts to rev his engine. When the last light at the bottom lights up, that’s the signal to go. It takes no more than two seconds for each light to light up the Christmas Tree. Here on Mockva we have something similar. The orange/amber light in the middle of a three-light traffic light (they look the same as the ones in the US) lights up when there’s a stop coming and does the same when you’re stopped and ready to receive a go signal. The only difference is for both stops and starts the amber light only blinks twice before the red or green light lights up. As I was driving home today it occurred to me that traffic lights on Mockva roads are like the Christmas Tree at a drag race.
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that driving in Mockva is the Wild West: What rules exist are usually ignored; people think nothing of cutting you off even if you’re driving 90km/hr (about 60 mph); and jack-rabbit starts when the light turns green are pretty much standard procedure.
So here you are poised at a stop light. You are looking at the red light then the amber (middle) light blinks twice and then the green light lights just like the Christmas Tree at a drag race. Off you go trying to beat out the guy next to you lest he gets a head start. The only thing that’s missing are the smoking “slick” tires; in Mockva since it’s usually cloudy and the road surface is wet from rain or snow (I noticed that there was about two inches of slushy, wet snow on the road when I got into my car this afternoon) your tires don’t tend to smoke when your car jumps off the start line. Otherwise, it feels just like a US drag race…
I must be getting used to driving here. During the first few weeks it was hard not to get really pissed off when someone cut you off, pulled out in front of you without signaling; or started beeping his horn at you for no apparent reason. I just seemed to take it all personally.
Most of that has changed by now 3+ months into my Mockva driving experience. Today, just after I got onto the highway leading to our apartment I was driving along when the guy three lanes to my right decided he needed to get into the left-hand turn lane two lanes to my left all within about 100 meters. Naturally, he pulled in front of me without a turn signal. We were going about 40km/hr. He swerved in front of me changing all five lanes (three to my right; two to my left) in about two seconds. I thought nothing of it. I just leaned on my horn, hard and swerved a bit to my right to avoid running up his rear bumper, probably making the guy behind me swerve to his right and thought nothing of it. My blood pressure and pulse remained the same, I didn’t get pissed off and just took the whole maneuver in stride.
Then, right before the turn off for our neighborhood there is a major three lane merge into the three lanes of the road I’m on. The guy to my right jutted out in front of me cutting me off without a signal. I tried to pull the nose of my car ahead of his. This is the usual game of chicken you play at these merges and this time I blinked and he got in front of me where-upon he darted across two more lanes to the left cutting off everyone else he got in front of. No sweat; steady as she goes. I just took it for granted and wiggled my way in front of three other cars that were also doing the blind merge maneuver. I wasn’t upset and just took it in stride – another day at the office…no problem…
There are a lot of well-to-do people here in Mockva and there are many, many expensive Mercedes, BMWs and even Cadillacs on the road. As I think I’ve mentioned our car is a 2000 Nissan Almera with several dents and a good bit of rust. Washing the car only reveals new rust spots so we usually drive it dirty. I feel I have an advantage when playing chicken with those high-end merging cars. I figure I can get a bit closer when trying to outdo a blindly merging Mercedes – even if I scraped his fender I’ve got a lot less to lose than he does.
So, my driving experience here has seemed to have matured lately I just take everything in stride – they’re going to cut you off anyway so why fight it…go with the flow…this is the Wild West…you make up your own rules as you drive along…
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Sunday, November 27, 2011
On Hitchhiking in Mockba
28 ноября 2011
Hitchhiking in Mockva occurs frequently. In Cyrillic hitchhiking is “автостопом”, I think. Both men and woman use автостопом to get around. And it doesn’t seem to be just kids. I’ve seen men my age trying to get a ride on city streets and even along major highways автостопом.
When I was in my teens автостопом in the US you’d stand in a spot you think you’d be seen, stick out your thumb in the direction you wanted to go, looked unassuming and pathetic and hoped you get a ride. Some would move their thumbs in the direction they were going, I guess for added emphasis that they could really use a ride. Most of the time I was successful but there were times, usually late at night, that I ended up doing a lot of walking. Here is Mockba the posture is slightly different. People автостопом stick out their arms in a downward position and extend one or several fingers like you might when you were hailing a cab or bus.
Автостопом is how I got around in the US when I was a kid until I was old enough to drive a car. Back in the 60s is was very common for boys to автостопом. You almost never saw girls doing it. The longest trip I ever made автостопом was from Gettysburg, PA to Watchung, NJ. Ironically it was to pick up a car I had just bought which would end my автостопом days. It took me most of the day and I did it in four rides: a clergyman, a truck driver, a businessman (I guess) and oddly one of my father’s friends during the last leg of the journey which was close to home.
I автостопом enough that I had many experiences some of which included: getting rides from some of my friends’ drunken brothers; a pimp who wanted to know if I wanted a date; a gay guy (although he wouldn’t have been called gay back then) asking me the size of my…and did I want to have a good time; a van load of drunk people who reminded me of the Beverly Hillbillies (I’m talking about the Klampet’s) who offered me a beer as I was trying to get from Princeton University where I saw a pre-season Giants game, to the Jersey shore And there were many, many other interesting people – mostly friendly but occasionally pretty scary.
I never mentioned any of these rides to my parents. In those days it was quite common – it was just how a kid got around but I’ll bet they wouldn’t have been happy about some of my experiences.
Today, of course, автостопом is almost unheard of in the US. In fact I can recall TV ads warning kids about accepting a ride from a stranger. Parents would be horrified to hear that their child was автостопом and probably for good reason. How many times do you hear in the US news the story of a kid who was abducted and killed or molested after accepting a ride from a stranger?
But here in Mockba thinks seem to be different. Trying to get a ride by автостопом is quite common. There must be more trust here. We seemed to have lost it in the US.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
When I was in my teens автостопом in the US you’d stand in a spot you think you’d be seen, stick out your thumb in the direction you wanted to go, looked unassuming and pathetic and hoped you get a ride. Some would move their thumbs in the direction they were going, I guess for added emphasis that they could really use a ride. Most of the time I was successful but there were times, usually late at night, that I ended up doing a lot of walking. Here is Mockba the posture is slightly different. People автостопом stick out their arms in a downward position and extend one or several fingers like you might when you were hailing a cab or bus.
Автостопом is how I got around in the US when I was a kid until I was old enough to drive a car. Back in the 60s is was very common for boys to автостопом. You almost never saw girls doing it. The longest trip I ever made автостопом was from Gettysburg, PA to Watchung, NJ. Ironically it was to pick up a car I had just bought which would end my автостопом days. It took me most of the day and I did it in four rides: a clergyman, a truck driver, a businessman (I guess) and oddly one of my father’s friends during the last leg of the journey which was close to home.
I автостопом enough that I had many experiences some of which included: getting rides from some of my friends’ drunken brothers; a pimp who wanted to know if I wanted a date; a gay guy (although he wouldn’t have been called gay back then) asking me the size of my…and did I want to have a good time; a van load of drunk people who reminded me of the Beverly Hillbillies (I’m talking about the Klampet’s) who offered me a beer as I was trying to get from Princeton University where I saw a pre-season Giants game, to the Jersey shore And there were many, many other interesting people – mostly friendly but occasionally pretty scary.
I never mentioned any of these rides to my parents. In those days it was quite common – it was just how a kid got around but I’ll bet they wouldn’t have been happy about some of my experiences.
Today, of course, автостопом is almost unheard of in the US. In fact I can recall TV ads warning kids about accepting a ride from a stranger. Parents would be horrified to hear that their child was автостопом and probably for good reason. How many times do you hear in the US news the story of a kid who was abducted and killed or molested after accepting a ride from a stranger?
But here in Mockba thinks seem to be different. Trying to get a ride by автостопом is quite common. There must be more trust here. We seemed to have lost it in the US.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Thursday, November 24, 2011
On Darkness in Москва…It’s Happening
25 ноября 2011
In a previous post I mentioned that we were “looking forward” to the winter when the daylight window here is Mockba is very short. It’s now late in November and that window has closed up significantly. The sun now does not rise until about 10:00 in the morning. It’s pitch black when people go to work during rush hour from about 6:00 to 8:30. It feels odd to see car headlights shining at 8:00 in the morning. The other end of the window is more typical of what some from the US would expect. At this point the sun has gone down by 14:30 in the afternoon although you can sense that in a month sundown will be around 13:30.
We were warned that this lack of daylight gives some a problem with Seasonal Affective Disorder. To date I’m not having a problem. For me, at least at the point, is more interesting than debilitating. I hope this continues.
One thing that does seem to be a problem for many at this time of year is a lack of sunlight (vs. daylight). We’ve had long periods of rainy/snowy, gloomy weather which Mockva apparently is known for. Several weeks ago we went for a stretch where the sun did not shine for two weeks. Earlier this week we had two sunny days. We’ve been told the Mockva averages 56 sunny days a year. Now that can get depressing. Seems like the average is holding true…
In winter the cold is supposed to bring more sunny days but at present with the lows now somewhere between 0 and -9 (Celsius) this hasn’t happened that often to date.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
We were warned that this lack of daylight gives some a problem with Seasonal Affective Disorder. To date I’m not having a problem. For me, at least at the point, is more interesting than debilitating. I hope this continues.
One thing that does seem to be a problem for many at this time of year is a lack of sunlight (vs. daylight). We’ve had long periods of rainy/snowy, gloomy weather which Mockva apparently is known for. Several weeks ago we went for a stretch where the sun did not shine for two weeks. Earlier this week we had two sunny days. We’ve been told the Mockva averages 56 sunny days a year. Now that can get depressing. Seems like the average is holding true…
In winter the cold is supposed to bring more sunny days but at present with the lows now somewhere between 0 and -9 (Celsius) this hasn’t happened that often to date.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Sunday, November 13, 2011
On Spacing and I’m Finally Starting to Get it
14 ноября 2011
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that people from Москва, from a western perspective, think nothing of cutting in front of you, while standing in a line waiting to pay for groceries, to have something weighed in the produce aisle or while driving. With respective to driving, I’ve made the point that if you leave what I would consider a comfortable distance between my car and the one in front of me, Russians think nothing of cutting you off and wiggling between your front bumper the car’s rear bumper in front of you. As I’ve said, the only rule while driving seems to be: if there’s a space, fill it with you or your car. Coming from the US, my impression is that people or downright rude and discourteous. This happened to me again today in a line I was standing in to get some produce weighed at a supermarket we frequent. And then in dawned on me. Russians and people from the US view the comfortable space between them very differently.
I never feel comfortable in a line unless there is at least a meter of space between me and someone in front of me whether it’s standing in a line at the checkout, on the Metpro or walking along a crowded sidewalk. In the car, the rule I’m used to is: keep a car’s length for every 10 mph between your car and the one in front of you.
I’ve finally figured out, today, that Russian’s are tolerant of spacing much closer together. I don’t know where this comes from but it’s probably a cultural phenomenon. Maybe it’s because Москва is such a big, expansive city and there are millions of residents. It reminds me of Mexico City which I visited several years ago. Mexico and Москва have a large central district but the city limits extend many kilometers beyond. By some estimates there are a least 10,000,000 inhabitants in Москва although this seems low to me.
There are so many people crammed into the space that is Москва that I guess you learn to be much more tolerant of the person or car near you. Many parts of the US are known for their “wide open spaces” and so Americans seem to be much less tolerant of people encroaching on an invisible boundary: about 1 meter between you and the next guy. So, when I stand in line to have the produce weighed I’m far enough from the person in front of me (western standard) that from the Russian perspective, I’m not in line at all and it’s perfectly acceptable to cut in front of me since I appear to be standing around twiddling my thumbs. There is a similar effect while driving.
And so, what I’ve interpreted up until now as being rude behavior, may be more a function of how much space you are willing to tolerate between you and the person in front of you. And while I still get pissed off when someone jumps in front of me (walking afoot or driving) at least I think I’m starting to understand why this happens. What I’m perceiving as rude behavior may just be the Russian status quo, or at least that’s what I’m thinking right now.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
I never feel comfortable in a line unless there is at least a meter of space between me and someone in front of me whether it’s standing in a line at the checkout, on the Metpro or walking along a crowded sidewalk. In the car, the rule I’m used to is: keep a car’s length for every 10 mph between your car and the one in front of you.
I’ve finally figured out, today, that Russian’s are tolerant of spacing much closer together. I don’t know where this comes from but it’s probably a cultural phenomenon. Maybe it’s because Москва is such a big, expansive city and there are millions of residents. It reminds me of Mexico City which I visited several years ago. Mexico and Москва have a large central district but the city limits extend many kilometers beyond. By some estimates there are a least 10,000,000 inhabitants in Москва although this seems low to me.
There are so many people crammed into the space that is Москва that I guess you learn to be much more tolerant of the person or car near you. Many parts of the US are known for their “wide open spaces” and so Americans seem to be much less tolerant of people encroaching on an invisible boundary: about 1 meter between you and the next guy. So, when I stand in line to have the produce weighed I’m far enough from the person in front of me (western standard) that from the Russian perspective, I’m not in line at all and it’s perfectly acceptable to cut in front of me since I appear to be standing around twiddling my thumbs. There is a similar effect while driving.
And so, what I’ve interpreted up until now as being rude behavior, may be more a function of how much space you are willing to tolerate between you and the person in front of you. And while I still get pissed off when someone jumps in front of me (walking afoot or driving) at least I think I’m starting to understand why this happens. What I’m perceiving as rude behavior may just be the Russian status quo, or at least that’s what I’m thinking right now.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
On Heels
10 ноября 2011
By training I am more of a biomechanist than fashion designer critic but there is an astounding display of balance and coordination displayed by young Russian women every day here in Москва. I am referring to the exceptionally HIGH heels that can be seen all over the city. They are at least 4 inches (10.16 cm) high and possibly higher. It’s hard to fathom how anyone can walk and sometimes run along all kinds of sidewalk and street surfaces without falling or spraining an ankle.
The heels are so high that the heel bone (calcaneus) is almost directly over the ball of the foot putting the foot into a posture akin to toe-dancing in ballet. Just looking at these young women causes my ankles to buckle and ache. Makes you wonder if heels can go any higher? – Amazing!
Доследующегораза,
Борис
The heels are so high that the heel bone (calcaneus) is almost directly over the ball of the foot putting the foot into a posture akin to toe-dancing in ballet. Just looking at these young women causes my ankles to buckle and ache. Makes you wonder if heels can go any higher? – Amazing!
Доследующегораза,
Борис
On Prague Graffiti
9 ноября 2011
We’ve just returned from Prague in the Czech Republic after spending a week there. Nancy’s school, as do other Russian schools, has a week-long fall break in November. Prague is a gorgeous city with an interesting and important history that has affected Europe for hundreds of years. The buildings and other architecture are phenomenal. I spent hours just photographing them.
There is one thing that is lacking in Prague compared with cities like Москва, LA or New York. The graffiti in Prague is very poor. Compared with New York, arguably the graffiti capital of the world, Prague’s graffiti artists seem to be in their infancy. And while residents and tourists are probably very happy with this, as a photographer it’s down-right disappointing. In a city renowned for its art, you’d think graffiti artists would be in their prime – not so. I’m wondering if the art formed hasn’t evolved yet and there is more to come or, is Prague’s graffiti at its pinnacle and on its way down? Time will tell. I’ll let you know after our next visit.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
There is one thing that is lacking in Prague compared with cities like Москва, LA or New York. The graffiti in Prague is very poor. Compared with New York, arguably the graffiti capital of the world, Prague’s graffiti artists seem to be in their infancy. And while residents and tourists are probably very happy with this, as a photographer it’s down-right disappointing. In a city renowned for its art, you’d think graffiti artists would be in their prime – not so. I’m wondering if the art formed hasn’t evolved yet and there is more to come or, is Prague’s graffiti at its pinnacle and on its way down? Time will tell. I’ll let you know after our next visit.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Cooking Lessons in a Russian Dacha
8 ноября 2011
One of the nice things about the schedule at AAS is that there is a one-week holiday the first week of November which coincides with the Russian school calendar here in Москва. For anyone so inclined travel for the week is an easy flight to most Euorpean and many Asian cities. That said, Nancy and I spent the last week in Prague in the Czech Republic. We stayed in a very nice hotel in the “Old Town” section of the city. Prague is a very walk able city and so we spent the week taking organized and our own tours. By the end of each day the cobble-stoned walks and roads do take told on your feet but worth the price for the chance to stay in one of Europe’s ancient and elegant cities. You no doubt will understand that I took 100’s of images and as I work through them I’ll post them on my site for those who are interested.
Our Prague trips accounts for the week-long silence from blog posts. We arrived back in Москва yesterday evening and so I’m back in business today (Sunday).
A couple of weeks ago a group of about 20 teachers from AAS could a trip to a dacha about 70 km north of Москва to take Russian cooking lessons. The owner (Galena – spelling may not be correct) owns a beautifully maintained and restored dacha which was in her family for generations. The dacha originally functioned as a weaving factory where hand-made fabrics are woven on a traditional loom. One loom is still functioning and is run by an old woman who has been a weaver since she was a child. The loom is completely hand-made and complex in its design and function. We were told it is probably the only one of its kind, perhaps in the world.
I addition to watching our lady weaving on the loom we took Russian cooking lessons in the dining and kitchen areas of the dacha situated next to a traditional wood-fired oven where the pastries we helped made were baked.
We also helped prepare some of the ingredients to make a large pot of borscht (борщ.) Personally, I had thought борщ was a red thickened soup made primarily from beets. We learned that while beets can be used борщ is made from any available vegetables in the yard or kitchen. It is prepared as a thickened vegetable stew and was served at the end of our visit in the dining area where we sat at beautifully set tables next to the warm brick oven.
I took several hundred photos while we were at the dacha and put together 3 slideshows from some of the images. If you’re interested, the slideshows can be downloaded from my Web site (URL below – click on the “Russian” link.) There are two formats: “.exe” and “.pdf”. If you use a Mac the .pdf version should work for you. Rather than try and activate the shows from my site it’s best to download them from my site to a convenient folder on your machine and activate them from there.
До следующего раза ...
Энди
Our Prague trips accounts for the week-long silence from blog posts. We arrived back in Москва yesterday evening and so I’m back in business today (Sunday).
A couple of weeks ago a group of about 20 teachers from AAS could a trip to a dacha about 70 km north of Москва to take Russian cooking lessons. The owner (Galena – spelling may not be correct) owns a beautifully maintained and restored dacha which was in her family for generations. The dacha originally functioned as a weaving factory where hand-made fabrics are woven on a traditional loom. One loom is still functioning and is run by an old woman who has been a weaver since she was a child. The loom is completely hand-made and complex in its design and function. We were told it is probably the only one of its kind, perhaps in the world.
I addition to watching our lady weaving on the loom we took Russian cooking lessons in the dining and kitchen areas of the dacha situated next to a traditional wood-fired oven where the pastries we helped made were baked.
We also helped prepare some of the ingredients to make a large pot of borscht (борщ.) Personally, I had thought борщ was a red thickened soup made primarily from beets. We learned that while beets can be used борщ is made from any available vegetables in the yard or kitchen. It is prepared as a thickened vegetable stew and was served at the end of our visit in the dining area where we sat at beautifully set tables next to the warm brick oven.
I took several hundred photos while we were at the dacha and put together 3 slideshows from some of the images. If you’re interested, the slideshows can be downloaded from my Web site (URL below – click on the “Russian” link.) There are two formats: “.exe” and “.pdf”. If you use a Mac the .pdf version should work for you. Rather than try and activate the shows from my site it’s best to download them from my site to a convenient folder on your machine and activate them from there.
До следующего раза ...
Энди
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