Well, this is our next to last day here in Mockva for the holidays. My wife’s school break starts the 16th and then we’re back to the US for about two before returning to Mockva.
Coming home it was the usual. Just before the turn-off to our neighborhood, coming back from my wife’s school, there was a long back-up. A large panel truck crushed into a car to its right trying to make the same turn I was. By the time I got around the accident the police were already on the scene taking pictures of the damage.
When you’re involved in an accident here you’re not supposed to move your vehicles (I don’t know what happens if you do) until the police arrive. It doesn’t matter if you’re on a side street or a major eight lane highway with car whooshing by you at 90 km/hr. This is pretty much a daily event as I’ve mentioned before. .
So that’s it from Mockva for a couple of weeks.
If you’re interested I’ve posted a slide show on my site (www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com) of Christmas at the Kremlin and Red Square.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Sunday, December 11, 2011
A Brief History of Stalin’s Seven Sisters
11 декабря 2011
After the Second World War Josef Stalin made plans to have seven skyscrapers constructed to show the world that Mockva would have a world presence in commerce, business and trade. He planned seven large buildings that would be dispersed throughout the city, one of which is now the Radisson Hotel (see the previous post on this blog). After much planning and initial rejection of architects’ plans a number of times, construction began in 1947. Along the way some buildings were partially constructed and then shelved for various reasons. The last building was constructed in 1953 after Stalin died of a stroke and Nikita Khrushchev became head of state of the Soviet Union.
All seven buildings became known as Stalin’s Сталинские высотки (High-Rises). Over the years the name has translated in English to: Stalin’s Seven Sisters.
While all are not identical they are similarly constructed with a high central spire surrounded by spired towers. The masonry has a similar appearance to that of the Empire State Building in New York City; not as tall, but multi-faceted with side buildings with towers, reminding me of various cathedrals I’ve seen throughout the world – ironic, considering Communism denied religion and religious symbols such as churches and cathedrals.
None-the-less they are towering and impressive structures, said to be over-built from steel and masonry. I often use them as landmarks to navigate around Mockva.
I’ve posted a slide show of shots taking of the Radisson Hotel, one of the Sisters, at night.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
All seven buildings became known as Stalin’s Сталинские высотки (High-Rises). Over the years the name has translated in English to: Stalin’s Seven Sisters.
While all are not identical they are similarly constructed with a high central spire surrounded by spired towers. The masonry has a similar appearance to that of the Empire State Building in New York City; not as tall, but multi-faceted with side buildings with towers, reminding me of various cathedrals I’ve seen throughout the world – ironic, considering Communism denied religion and religious symbols such as churches and cathedrals.
None-the-less they are towering and impressive structures, said to be over-built from steel and masonry. I often use them as landmarks to navigate around Mockva.
I’ve posted a slide show of shots taking of the Radisson Hotel, one of the Sisters, at night.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
One Advantage of a 10:00AM Sunrise
11 декабря 2011
I like to take night shots.. The problem is usually that you have to stay out late between 22:00 and midnight to get a really black sky or get up very early in the morning around 3:00-4:00. It’s OK in the late spring or summer but any other time of year it can get down-right cold. Cold enough that you start losing the feeling in the tips of your fingers and toes. I use special mittens that allow the top near your fingers to flip open so the rest of your hand can stay “warm” but even with special mittens it ain’t always a pleasant experience.
I mentioned in a previous post that the daylight window here in Mockva is very narrow. Sunrise at this time of year is at about 10:00 in the morning. So, at 7:00, a bit more civilized hour for being awake, the sky here is still pitch-black making it a much more comfortable time to go out shooting both physically and psychologically
The other day I went down to the Mockva River near the US Embassy and Russian White House and shot the Radisson Hotel on the other side of the river. The lights around Christmas time are bright and colorful and a great source of night shots. Right next to the Radisson is a bridge that’s also all decked out in Christmas colors, also a great resource. If you’re interested I posted a slide show on my site. The filename is: statlin_sister.exe.
The Radisson is one of seven similar buildings that are known in English as Stalin’s Seven Sisters. If you’re interested see the next post on this blog for a brief history of the Seven Sisters.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
I mentioned in a previous post that the daylight window here in Mockva is very narrow. Sunrise at this time of year is at about 10:00 in the morning. So, at 7:00, a bit more civilized hour for being awake, the sky here is still pitch-black making it a much more comfortable time to go out shooting both physically and psychologically
The other day I went down to the Mockva River near the US Embassy and Russian White House and shot the Radisson Hotel on the other side of the river. The lights around Christmas time are bright and colorful and a great source of night shots. Right next to the Radisson is a bridge that’s also all decked out in Christmas colors, also a great resource. If you’re interested I posted a slide show on my site. The filename is: statlin_sister.exe.
The Radisson is one of seven similar buildings that are known in English as Stalin’s Seven Sisters. If you’re interested see the next post on this blog for a brief history of the Seven Sisters.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Graffiti (граффити) on the Arbat , Mockva
8 декабря 2011
Gwenn since you are a devote of graffiti as am I, I made a special show for you. I've mentioned in my blog that there is a section of Mockva called the Arbat which is a pedestrian mall that feels somewhat like a cross betrween Times Square and the Village. There are always musicians playing and hawking their latest CDs and artists selling their paintings and sketches. And, when it's warmer there are street performers, although not quite as good as you'll see in Central Park or Washington Square Park.
Yesterday, I took another walk down and around the Arbat actually looking for Christmas scenes when I shifted my focus and started looking for and shooting graffiti. The more I ducked into side streets and alleyways, the more I found.
There is very good graffiti on the Arbat itself and even better stuff on building walls a block or two off the Artbat, often near playgrounds, of which there are many. These guys are really good artists. The colors they use are vibrant and rival and sometimes surpass New York City graffiti. These aren't drive-by, hit-and-run paintings. In some cases there is background prep that by itself, must have taken hours to do, presumably under cover of darkness, which is in ample supply here in Moscow. So if you're interested download it from my site. The filename is: arbat_graffiti.exe. It's currently the last entry as of December 8th. Remember to download it first to your PC and then click on it.
Since others might like to take a look I'm going to post this message on my blog.
Hope you like the show.
Andy aka Борис
Yesterday, I took another walk down and around the Arbat actually looking for Christmas scenes when I shifted my focus and started looking for and shooting graffiti. The more I ducked into side streets and alleyways, the more I found.
There is very good graffiti on the Arbat itself and even better stuff on building walls a block or two off the Artbat, often near playgrounds, of which there are many. These guys are really good artists. The colors they use are vibrant and rival and sometimes surpass New York City graffiti. These aren't drive-by, hit-and-run paintings. In some cases there is background prep that by itself, must have taken hours to do, presumably under cover of darkness, which is in ample supply here in Moscow. So if you're interested download it from my site. The filename is: arbat_graffiti.exe. It's currently the last entry as of December 8th. Remember to download it first to your PC and then click on it.
Since others might like to take a look I'm going to post this message on my blog.
Hope you like the show.
Andy aka Борис
Friday, December 2, 2011
Driving in Mockva – Limerick
2 декабря 2011
Bruce Nelson, a member of the faculty at the Anglo-American School of Moscow, gave me permission to share his limerick concerning driving in Mockva. It encapsulates the experience beautifully and for those of you who’ve been reading my posts and are saying to yourselves “He must be exaggerating – it can’t be that bad” Bruce’s limerick corroborates all I’ve been saying:
Thank you Bruce.
DRIVING IN MOSCOW ©Bruce Nelson,
Since driving in Moscow's insane,
I let my barbaric side reign
and always resist
those cars which persist
in taking the on-coming lane.
I drive straight at them without fear
of ending my life or career.
I just flash my light,
which seems to incite
their fury as closer we near.
Eventually they always choose
to not make the next morning's news
in lists of who died
when they did collide
with someone with nothing to lose
Thank you Bruce.
DRIVING IN MOSCOW ©Bruce Nelson,
Since driving in Moscow's insane,
I let my barbaric side reign
and always resist
those cars which persist
in taking the on-coming lane.
I drive straight at them without fear
of ending my life or career.
I just flash my light,
which seems to incite
their fury as closer we near.
Eventually they always choose
to not make the next morning's news
in lists of who died
when they did collide
with someone with nothing to lose
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
On Christmas Tree Lights and I Must Be Getting Used to Driving Here
29 ноября 2011
If you’ve ever gone to a drag race in the US you’re familiar with the Christmas Tree Lights. At the starting line the racer looks at a series of colored lights that light up sequentially from top to bottom. When the top light lights the driver gets ready and starts to rev his engine. When the last light at the bottom lights up, that’s the signal to go. It takes no more than two seconds for each light to light up the Christmas Tree. Here on Mockva we have something similar. The orange/amber light in the middle of a three-light traffic light (they look the same as the ones in the US) lights up when there’s a stop coming and does the same when you’re stopped and ready to receive a go signal. The only difference is for both stops and starts the amber light only blinks twice before the red or green light lights up. As I was driving home today it occurred to me that traffic lights on Mockva roads are like the Christmas Tree at a drag race.
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that driving in Mockva is the Wild West: What rules exist are usually ignored; people think nothing of cutting you off even if you’re driving 90km/hr (about 60 mph); and jack-rabbit starts when the light turns green are pretty much standard procedure.
So here you are poised at a stop light. You are looking at the red light then the amber (middle) light blinks twice and then the green light lights just like the Christmas Tree at a drag race. Off you go trying to beat out the guy next to you lest he gets a head start. The only thing that’s missing are the smoking “slick” tires; in Mockva since it’s usually cloudy and the road surface is wet from rain or snow (I noticed that there was about two inches of slushy, wet snow on the road when I got into my car this afternoon) your tires don’t tend to smoke when your car jumps off the start line. Otherwise, it feels just like a US drag race…
I must be getting used to driving here. During the first few weeks it was hard not to get really pissed off when someone cut you off, pulled out in front of you without signaling; or started beeping his horn at you for no apparent reason. I just seemed to take it all personally.
Most of that has changed by now 3+ months into my Mockva driving experience. Today, just after I got onto the highway leading to our apartment I was driving along when the guy three lanes to my right decided he needed to get into the left-hand turn lane two lanes to my left all within about 100 meters. Naturally, he pulled in front of me without a turn signal. We were going about 40km/hr. He swerved in front of me changing all five lanes (three to my right; two to my left) in about two seconds. I thought nothing of it. I just leaned on my horn, hard and swerved a bit to my right to avoid running up his rear bumper, probably making the guy behind me swerve to his right and thought nothing of it. My blood pressure and pulse remained the same, I didn’t get pissed off and just took the whole maneuver in stride.
Then, right before the turn off for our neighborhood there is a major three lane merge into the three lanes of the road I’m on. The guy to my right jutted out in front of me cutting me off without a signal. I tried to pull the nose of my car ahead of his. This is the usual game of chicken you play at these merges and this time I blinked and he got in front of me where-upon he darted across two more lanes to the left cutting off everyone else he got in front of. No sweat; steady as she goes. I just took it for granted and wiggled my way in front of three other cars that were also doing the blind merge maneuver. I wasn’t upset and just took it in stride – another day at the office…no problem…
There are a lot of well-to-do people here in Mockva and there are many, many expensive Mercedes, BMWs and even Cadillacs on the road. As I think I’ve mentioned our car is a 2000 Nissan Almera with several dents and a good bit of rust. Washing the car only reveals new rust spots so we usually drive it dirty. I feel I have an advantage when playing chicken with those high-end merging cars. I figure I can get a bit closer when trying to outdo a blindly merging Mercedes – even if I scraped his fender I’ve got a lot less to lose than he does.
So, my driving experience here has seemed to have matured lately I just take everything in stride – they’re going to cut you off anyway so why fight it…go with the flow…this is the Wild West…you make up your own rules as you drive along…
Доследующегораза,
Борис
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that driving in Mockva is the Wild West: What rules exist are usually ignored; people think nothing of cutting you off even if you’re driving 90km/hr (about 60 mph); and jack-rabbit starts when the light turns green are pretty much standard procedure.
So here you are poised at a stop light. You are looking at the red light then the amber (middle) light blinks twice and then the green light lights just like the Christmas Tree at a drag race. Off you go trying to beat out the guy next to you lest he gets a head start. The only thing that’s missing are the smoking “slick” tires; in Mockva since it’s usually cloudy and the road surface is wet from rain or snow (I noticed that there was about two inches of slushy, wet snow on the road when I got into my car this afternoon) your tires don’t tend to smoke when your car jumps off the start line. Otherwise, it feels just like a US drag race…
I must be getting used to driving here. During the first few weeks it was hard not to get really pissed off when someone cut you off, pulled out in front of you without signaling; or started beeping his horn at you for no apparent reason. I just seemed to take it all personally.
Most of that has changed by now 3+ months into my Mockva driving experience. Today, just after I got onto the highway leading to our apartment I was driving along when the guy three lanes to my right decided he needed to get into the left-hand turn lane two lanes to my left all within about 100 meters. Naturally, he pulled in front of me without a turn signal. We were going about 40km/hr. He swerved in front of me changing all five lanes (three to my right; two to my left) in about two seconds. I thought nothing of it. I just leaned on my horn, hard and swerved a bit to my right to avoid running up his rear bumper, probably making the guy behind me swerve to his right and thought nothing of it. My blood pressure and pulse remained the same, I didn’t get pissed off and just took the whole maneuver in stride.
Then, right before the turn off for our neighborhood there is a major three lane merge into the three lanes of the road I’m on. The guy to my right jutted out in front of me cutting me off without a signal. I tried to pull the nose of my car ahead of his. This is the usual game of chicken you play at these merges and this time I blinked and he got in front of me where-upon he darted across two more lanes to the left cutting off everyone else he got in front of. No sweat; steady as she goes. I just took it for granted and wiggled my way in front of three other cars that were also doing the blind merge maneuver. I wasn’t upset and just took it in stride – another day at the office…no problem…
There are a lot of well-to-do people here in Mockva and there are many, many expensive Mercedes, BMWs and even Cadillacs on the road. As I think I’ve mentioned our car is a 2000 Nissan Almera with several dents and a good bit of rust. Washing the car only reveals new rust spots so we usually drive it dirty. I feel I have an advantage when playing chicken with those high-end merging cars. I figure I can get a bit closer when trying to outdo a blindly merging Mercedes – even if I scraped his fender I’ve got a lot less to lose than he does.
So, my driving experience here has seemed to have matured lately I just take everything in stride – they’re going to cut you off anyway so why fight it…go with the flow…this is the Wild West…you make up your own rules as you drive along…
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Sunday, November 27, 2011
On Hitchhiking in Mockba
28 ноября 2011
Hitchhiking in Mockva occurs frequently. In Cyrillic hitchhiking is “автостопом”, I think. Both men and woman use автостопом to get around. And it doesn’t seem to be just kids. I’ve seen men my age trying to get a ride on city streets and even along major highways автостопом.
When I was in my teens автостопом in the US you’d stand in a spot you think you’d be seen, stick out your thumb in the direction you wanted to go, looked unassuming and pathetic and hoped you get a ride. Some would move their thumbs in the direction they were going, I guess for added emphasis that they could really use a ride. Most of the time I was successful but there were times, usually late at night, that I ended up doing a lot of walking. Here is Mockba the posture is slightly different. People автостопом stick out their arms in a downward position and extend one or several fingers like you might when you were hailing a cab or bus.
Автостопом is how I got around in the US when I was a kid until I was old enough to drive a car. Back in the 60s is was very common for boys to автостопом. You almost never saw girls doing it. The longest trip I ever made автостопом was from Gettysburg, PA to Watchung, NJ. Ironically it was to pick up a car I had just bought which would end my автостопом days. It took me most of the day and I did it in four rides: a clergyman, a truck driver, a businessman (I guess) and oddly one of my father’s friends during the last leg of the journey which was close to home.
I автостопом enough that I had many experiences some of which included: getting rides from some of my friends’ drunken brothers; a pimp who wanted to know if I wanted a date; a gay guy (although he wouldn’t have been called gay back then) asking me the size of my…and did I want to have a good time; a van load of drunk people who reminded me of the Beverly Hillbillies (I’m talking about the Klampet’s) who offered me a beer as I was trying to get from Princeton University where I saw a pre-season Giants game, to the Jersey shore And there were many, many other interesting people – mostly friendly but occasionally pretty scary.
I never mentioned any of these rides to my parents. In those days it was quite common – it was just how a kid got around but I’ll bet they wouldn’t have been happy about some of my experiences.
Today, of course, автостопом is almost unheard of in the US. In fact I can recall TV ads warning kids about accepting a ride from a stranger. Parents would be horrified to hear that their child was автостопом and probably for good reason. How many times do you hear in the US news the story of a kid who was abducted and killed or molested after accepting a ride from a stranger?
But here in Mockba thinks seem to be different. Trying to get a ride by автостопом is quite common. There must be more trust here. We seemed to have lost it in the US.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
When I was in my teens автостопом in the US you’d stand in a spot you think you’d be seen, stick out your thumb in the direction you wanted to go, looked unassuming and pathetic and hoped you get a ride. Some would move their thumbs in the direction they were going, I guess for added emphasis that they could really use a ride. Most of the time I was successful but there were times, usually late at night, that I ended up doing a lot of walking. Here is Mockba the posture is slightly different. People автостопом stick out their arms in a downward position and extend one or several fingers like you might when you were hailing a cab or bus.
Автостопом is how I got around in the US when I was a kid until I was old enough to drive a car. Back in the 60s is was very common for boys to автостопом. You almost never saw girls doing it. The longest trip I ever made автостопом was from Gettysburg, PA to Watchung, NJ. Ironically it was to pick up a car I had just bought which would end my автостопом days. It took me most of the day and I did it in four rides: a clergyman, a truck driver, a businessman (I guess) and oddly one of my father’s friends during the last leg of the journey which was close to home.
I автостопом enough that I had many experiences some of which included: getting rides from some of my friends’ drunken brothers; a pimp who wanted to know if I wanted a date; a gay guy (although he wouldn’t have been called gay back then) asking me the size of my…and did I want to have a good time; a van load of drunk people who reminded me of the Beverly Hillbillies (I’m talking about the Klampet’s) who offered me a beer as I was trying to get from Princeton University where I saw a pre-season Giants game, to the Jersey shore And there were many, many other interesting people – mostly friendly but occasionally pretty scary.
I never mentioned any of these rides to my parents. In those days it was quite common – it was just how a kid got around but I’ll bet they wouldn’t have been happy about some of my experiences.
Today, of course, автостопом is almost unheard of in the US. In fact I can recall TV ads warning kids about accepting a ride from a stranger. Parents would be horrified to hear that their child was автостопом and probably for good reason. How many times do you hear in the US news the story of a kid who was abducted and killed or molested after accepting a ride from a stranger?
But here in Mockba thinks seem to be different. Trying to get a ride by автостопом is quite common. There must be more trust here. We seemed to have lost it in the US.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Thursday, November 24, 2011
On Darkness in Москва…It’s Happening
25 ноября 2011
In a previous post I mentioned that we were “looking forward” to the winter when the daylight window here is Mockba is very short. It’s now late in November and that window has closed up significantly. The sun now does not rise until about 10:00 in the morning. It’s pitch black when people go to work during rush hour from about 6:00 to 8:30. It feels odd to see car headlights shining at 8:00 in the morning. The other end of the window is more typical of what some from the US would expect. At this point the sun has gone down by 14:30 in the afternoon although you can sense that in a month sundown will be around 13:30.
We were warned that this lack of daylight gives some a problem with Seasonal Affective Disorder. To date I’m not having a problem. For me, at least at the point, is more interesting than debilitating. I hope this continues.
One thing that does seem to be a problem for many at this time of year is a lack of sunlight (vs. daylight). We’ve had long periods of rainy/snowy, gloomy weather which Mockva apparently is known for. Several weeks ago we went for a stretch where the sun did not shine for two weeks. Earlier this week we had two sunny days. We’ve been told the Mockva averages 56 sunny days a year. Now that can get depressing. Seems like the average is holding true…
In winter the cold is supposed to bring more sunny days but at present with the lows now somewhere between 0 and -9 (Celsius) this hasn’t happened that often to date.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
We were warned that this lack of daylight gives some a problem with Seasonal Affective Disorder. To date I’m not having a problem. For me, at least at the point, is more interesting than debilitating. I hope this continues.
One thing that does seem to be a problem for many at this time of year is a lack of sunlight (vs. daylight). We’ve had long periods of rainy/snowy, gloomy weather which Mockva apparently is known for. Several weeks ago we went for a stretch where the sun did not shine for two weeks. Earlier this week we had two sunny days. We’ve been told the Mockva averages 56 sunny days a year. Now that can get depressing. Seems like the average is holding true…
In winter the cold is supposed to bring more sunny days but at present with the lows now somewhere between 0 and -9 (Celsius) this hasn’t happened that often to date.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Sunday, November 13, 2011
On Spacing and I’m Finally Starting to Get it
14 ноября 2011
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that people from Москва, from a western perspective, think nothing of cutting in front of you, while standing in a line waiting to pay for groceries, to have something weighed in the produce aisle or while driving. With respective to driving, I’ve made the point that if you leave what I would consider a comfortable distance between my car and the one in front of me, Russians think nothing of cutting you off and wiggling between your front bumper the car’s rear bumper in front of you. As I’ve said, the only rule while driving seems to be: if there’s a space, fill it with you or your car. Coming from the US, my impression is that people or downright rude and discourteous. This happened to me again today in a line I was standing in to get some produce weighed at a supermarket we frequent. And then in dawned on me. Russians and people from the US view the comfortable space between them very differently.
I never feel comfortable in a line unless there is at least a meter of space between me and someone in front of me whether it’s standing in a line at the checkout, on the Metpro or walking along a crowded sidewalk. In the car, the rule I’m used to is: keep a car’s length for every 10 mph between your car and the one in front of you.
I’ve finally figured out, today, that Russian’s are tolerant of spacing much closer together. I don’t know where this comes from but it’s probably a cultural phenomenon. Maybe it’s because Москва is such a big, expansive city and there are millions of residents. It reminds me of Mexico City which I visited several years ago. Mexico and Москва have a large central district but the city limits extend many kilometers beyond. By some estimates there are a least 10,000,000 inhabitants in Москва although this seems low to me.
There are so many people crammed into the space that is Москва that I guess you learn to be much more tolerant of the person or car near you. Many parts of the US are known for their “wide open spaces” and so Americans seem to be much less tolerant of people encroaching on an invisible boundary: about 1 meter between you and the next guy. So, when I stand in line to have the produce weighed I’m far enough from the person in front of me (western standard) that from the Russian perspective, I’m not in line at all and it’s perfectly acceptable to cut in front of me since I appear to be standing around twiddling my thumbs. There is a similar effect while driving.
And so, what I’ve interpreted up until now as being rude behavior, may be more a function of how much space you are willing to tolerate between you and the person in front of you. And while I still get pissed off when someone jumps in front of me (walking afoot or driving) at least I think I’m starting to understand why this happens. What I’m perceiving as rude behavior may just be the Russian status quo, or at least that’s what I’m thinking right now.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
I never feel comfortable in a line unless there is at least a meter of space between me and someone in front of me whether it’s standing in a line at the checkout, on the Metpro or walking along a crowded sidewalk. In the car, the rule I’m used to is: keep a car’s length for every 10 mph between your car and the one in front of you.
I’ve finally figured out, today, that Russian’s are tolerant of spacing much closer together. I don’t know where this comes from but it’s probably a cultural phenomenon. Maybe it’s because Москва is such a big, expansive city and there are millions of residents. It reminds me of Mexico City which I visited several years ago. Mexico and Москва have a large central district but the city limits extend many kilometers beyond. By some estimates there are a least 10,000,000 inhabitants in Москва although this seems low to me.
There are so many people crammed into the space that is Москва that I guess you learn to be much more tolerant of the person or car near you. Many parts of the US are known for their “wide open spaces” and so Americans seem to be much less tolerant of people encroaching on an invisible boundary: about 1 meter between you and the next guy. So, when I stand in line to have the produce weighed I’m far enough from the person in front of me (western standard) that from the Russian perspective, I’m not in line at all and it’s perfectly acceptable to cut in front of me since I appear to be standing around twiddling my thumbs. There is a similar effect while driving.
And so, what I’ve interpreted up until now as being rude behavior, may be more a function of how much space you are willing to tolerate between you and the person in front of you. And while I still get pissed off when someone jumps in front of me (walking afoot or driving) at least I think I’m starting to understand why this happens. What I’m perceiving as rude behavior may just be the Russian status quo, or at least that’s what I’m thinking right now.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
On Heels
10 ноября 2011
By training I am more of a biomechanist than fashion designer critic but there is an astounding display of balance and coordination displayed by young Russian women every day here in Москва. I am referring to the exceptionally HIGH heels that can be seen all over the city. They are at least 4 inches (10.16 cm) high and possibly higher. It’s hard to fathom how anyone can walk and sometimes run along all kinds of sidewalk and street surfaces without falling or spraining an ankle.
The heels are so high that the heel bone (calcaneus) is almost directly over the ball of the foot putting the foot into a posture akin to toe-dancing in ballet. Just looking at these young women causes my ankles to buckle and ache. Makes you wonder if heels can go any higher? – Amazing!
Доследующегораза,
Борис
The heels are so high that the heel bone (calcaneus) is almost directly over the ball of the foot putting the foot into a posture akin to toe-dancing in ballet. Just looking at these young women causes my ankles to buckle and ache. Makes you wonder if heels can go any higher? – Amazing!
Доследующегораза,
Борис
On Prague Graffiti
9 ноября 2011
We’ve just returned from Prague in the Czech Republic after spending a week there. Nancy’s school, as do other Russian schools, has a week-long fall break in November. Prague is a gorgeous city with an interesting and important history that has affected Europe for hundreds of years. The buildings and other architecture are phenomenal. I spent hours just photographing them.
There is one thing that is lacking in Prague compared with cities like Москва, LA or New York. The graffiti in Prague is very poor. Compared with New York, arguably the graffiti capital of the world, Prague’s graffiti artists seem to be in their infancy. And while residents and tourists are probably very happy with this, as a photographer it’s down-right disappointing. In a city renowned for its art, you’d think graffiti artists would be in their prime – not so. I’m wondering if the art formed hasn’t evolved yet and there is more to come or, is Prague’s graffiti at its pinnacle and on its way down? Time will tell. I’ll let you know after our next visit.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
There is one thing that is lacking in Prague compared with cities like Москва, LA or New York. The graffiti in Prague is very poor. Compared with New York, arguably the graffiti capital of the world, Prague’s graffiti artists seem to be in their infancy. And while residents and tourists are probably very happy with this, as a photographer it’s down-right disappointing. In a city renowned for its art, you’d think graffiti artists would be in their prime – not so. I’m wondering if the art formed hasn’t evolved yet and there is more to come or, is Prague’s graffiti at its pinnacle and on its way down? Time will tell. I’ll let you know after our next visit.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Cooking Lessons in a Russian Dacha
8 ноября 2011
One of the nice things about the schedule at AAS is that there is a one-week holiday the first week of November which coincides with the Russian school calendar here in Москва. For anyone so inclined travel for the week is an easy flight to most Euorpean and many Asian cities. That said, Nancy and I spent the last week in Prague in the Czech Republic. We stayed in a very nice hotel in the “Old Town” section of the city. Prague is a very walk able city and so we spent the week taking organized and our own tours. By the end of each day the cobble-stoned walks and roads do take told on your feet but worth the price for the chance to stay in one of Europe’s ancient and elegant cities. You no doubt will understand that I took 100’s of images and as I work through them I’ll post them on my site for those who are interested.
Our Prague trips accounts for the week-long silence from blog posts. We arrived back in Москва yesterday evening and so I’m back in business today (Sunday).
A couple of weeks ago a group of about 20 teachers from AAS could a trip to a dacha about 70 km north of Москва to take Russian cooking lessons. The owner (Galena – spelling may not be correct) owns a beautifully maintained and restored dacha which was in her family for generations. The dacha originally functioned as a weaving factory where hand-made fabrics are woven on a traditional loom. One loom is still functioning and is run by an old woman who has been a weaver since she was a child. The loom is completely hand-made and complex in its design and function. We were told it is probably the only one of its kind, perhaps in the world.
I addition to watching our lady weaving on the loom we took Russian cooking lessons in the dining and kitchen areas of the dacha situated next to a traditional wood-fired oven where the pastries we helped made were baked.
We also helped prepare some of the ingredients to make a large pot of borscht (борщ.) Personally, I had thought борщ was a red thickened soup made primarily from beets. We learned that while beets can be used борщ is made from any available vegetables in the yard or kitchen. It is prepared as a thickened vegetable stew and was served at the end of our visit in the dining area where we sat at beautifully set tables next to the warm brick oven.
I took several hundred photos while we were at the dacha and put together 3 slideshows from some of the images. If you’re interested, the slideshows can be downloaded from my Web site (URL below – click on the “Russian” link.) There are two formats: “.exe” and “.pdf”. If you use a Mac the .pdf version should work for you. Rather than try and activate the shows from my site it’s best to download them from my site to a convenient folder on your machine and activate them from there.
До следующего раза ...
Энди
Our Prague trips accounts for the week-long silence from blog posts. We arrived back in Москва yesterday evening and so I’m back in business today (Sunday).
A couple of weeks ago a group of about 20 teachers from AAS could a trip to a dacha about 70 km north of Москва to take Russian cooking lessons. The owner (Galena – spelling may not be correct) owns a beautifully maintained and restored dacha which was in her family for generations. The dacha originally functioned as a weaving factory where hand-made fabrics are woven on a traditional loom. One loom is still functioning and is run by an old woman who has been a weaver since she was a child. The loom is completely hand-made and complex in its design and function. We were told it is probably the only one of its kind, perhaps in the world.
I addition to watching our lady weaving on the loom we took Russian cooking lessons in the dining and kitchen areas of the dacha situated next to a traditional wood-fired oven where the pastries we helped made were baked.
We also helped prepare some of the ingredients to make a large pot of borscht (борщ.) Personally, I had thought борщ was a red thickened soup made primarily from beets. We learned that while beets can be used борщ is made from any available vegetables in the yard or kitchen. It is prepared as a thickened vegetable stew and was served at the end of our visit in the dining area where we sat at beautifully set tables next to the warm brick oven.
I took several hundred photos while we were at the dacha and put together 3 slideshows from some of the images. If you’re interested, the slideshows can be downloaded from my Web site (URL below – click on the “Russian” link.) There are two formats: “.exe” and “.pdf”. If you use a Mac the .pdf version should work for you. Rather than try and activate the shows from my site it’s best to download them from my site to a convenient folder on your machine and activate them from there.
До следующего раза ...
Энди
Monday, October 24, 2011
Mockba Metpro двери
24 октября 2001
The doors (двери) on the Metpro cars are just as viscous as our apartment elevator doors. I was in the metpro this morning picking something up and a woman almost had her purse cut in half by the closing doors.
In New York the subway doors close more slowly and a bit more gently – everybody knows this. If you’re stuck between the doors or something you’re carrying gets stuck the conductor, while irritated, will re-open the doors to clear the jam-up. Not so on the Москва Metpro. Whether you’ve gotten yourself or your belongings in or not at the appointed moment the doors snap shut quickly and forcefully – no second chances.
The woman I mentioned was late and tried for the door just as it was snapping shut with herself still on the outside and the doors clamped down on her purse. If the doors edges had been sharpened (I not sure they aren’t – have to check some day) they would have chopped the purse in half. As it was, there was a large dent in it. Fortunately, there was a security guard (they are all over the Metpro and Mockba in general (see future post on security guards) on the platform and saw the woman and grabbed the door edge (so they’re not sharpened) and yanked on it will all his might creating a little space so she could extract the dented purse. They don’t fool around here.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
In New York the subway doors close more slowly and a bit more gently – everybody knows this. If you’re stuck between the doors or something you’re carrying gets stuck the conductor, while irritated, will re-open the doors to clear the jam-up. Not so on the Москва Metpro. Whether you’ve gotten yourself or your belongings in or not at the appointed moment the doors snap shut quickly and forcefully – no second chances.
The woman I mentioned was late and tried for the door just as it was snapping shut with herself still on the outside and the doors clamped down on her purse. If the doors edges had been sharpened (I not sure they aren’t – have to check some day) they would have chopped the purse in half. As it was, there was a large dent in it. Fortunately, there was a security guard (they are all over the Metpro and Mockba in general (see future post on security guards) on the platform and saw the woman and grabbed the door edge (so they’re not sharpened) and yanked on it will all his might creating a little space so she could extract the dented purse. They don’t fool around here.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Escalators in Москва
22 октября 2011
As I mentioned in an older post, some of the escalators at the Metpo (remember a “p” is an “r” in Cyrillic) here in Москва are very, very long. They are so long that if 2 people are together the person on the lower step will turn all the way around and have a lengthy conversation with the person on the upper step anticipating the long ride down or up the escalator. They’re really long.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Friday, October 21, 2011
At First Glance They Look a Little Medieval…
22 октября 2011
The rakes that the maintenance people for our building use to rake up fallen leaves don’t come from OBI (equivalent to Home Depot in the US), they are home-made. They have the usual wooden handle but the raking part is a bundle of branches from a tree (without the leaves) which are lashed to the handle. The branches I’ve seen look like they come from the same type of trees. I’m guessing they are flexible yet durable. At first you think they look like they come right out of the middle ages but when used properly they actually do a very good job.
Rakes that I’ve used in the US require a forward and backward action to bunch up the leaves. The Russian type uses a side-to-side sweeping action that moves a large number of leaves per stroke and gives the ground a tidy swept up (almost polished) look. You see the rakes used all over Москва so they don’t seem to be unique to our maintenance people.
I’ve tried to find out the origin of these home-made tools but thus far people I’ve talked to don’t know the answer. Since most people I talk to are English speakers from the US, UK or Canada, I guess this shouldn’t be surprising although a good many Russian speakers from Москва don’t know the answer either.
When (really if) my Russian improves to the point I can hold at least a minimal conversation (don’t hold your breath) maybe I’ll go directly to the source but at the moment I don’t know what they’re saying and they don’t know what I’m saying – welcome to the life of an English speaking foreigner.
I’m thinking that if you’re a maintenance person in Москва you may be required to supply their own tools. Store-bought rakes are probably relatively expensive so it may be that home-made rakes are cheap, easy to use and easily replaced when the branches wear out.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Rakes that I’ve used in the US require a forward and backward action to bunch up the leaves. The Russian type uses a side-to-side sweeping action that moves a large number of leaves per stroke and gives the ground a tidy swept up (almost polished) look. You see the rakes used all over Москва so they don’t seem to be unique to our maintenance people.
I’ve tried to find out the origin of these home-made tools but thus far people I’ve talked to don’t know the answer. Since most people I talk to are English speakers from the US, UK or Canada, I guess this shouldn’t be surprising although a good many Russian speakers from Москва don’t know the answer either.
When (really if) my Russian improves to the point I can hold at least a minimal conversation (don’t hold your breath) maybe I’ll go directly to the source but at the moment I don’t know what they’re saying and they don’t know what I’m saying – welcome to the life of an English speaking foreigner.
I’m thinking that if you’re a maintenance person in Москва you may be required to supply their own tools. Store-bought rakes are probably relatively expensive so it may be that home-made rakes are cheap, easy to use and easily replaced when the branches wear out.
Доследующегораза,
Борис
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Don’t Try This in Москва
20 октября 2011
If you are a New York City commuter driving along the FDR Drive or the Henry Hudson Parkway/West Side Highway you have no doubt done this: As an ambulance passes with its lights flashing and siren whining you jump into the lane they’re in and try to get as close to the ambulance as possible. You can sometimes “ride this wave” for a considerable distance. The trick is staying close enough so that a dozen drivers don’t cut in front of you. Eventually enough cars do so that you lose your tactical advantage and you’re back to being bumper-to-bumper.
You probably don’t want to try this in Москва. Here if you wanted to do this maneuver you have to have nerves of steel and lightning-quick reflexes. In order to gain an advantage you will literally have to pull up right behind the ambulance about a meter or less behind the rear bumper, kind of like the way racing cars do (it’s called drafting) in the Daytona 500. If you let so much as a hair’s width between you and the bumper I guaranty someone in the lane next to you (or even two lanes from you) will cut you off and wiggle their way into that space to get the advantage. You slam on the brakes hoping you saw them in time before you become another accident statistic on the M10 requiring that same ambulance you were trying to draft…not for the faint of heart.
While I consider myself a pretty good commuting driver, around here in Москва I just let the ambulance pass me by…it’s not worth it…not even a little…
До следующего раза ...
Борис
You probably don’t want to try this in Москва. Here if you wanted to do this maneuver you have to have nerves of steel and lightning-quick reflexes. In order to gain an advantage you will literally have to pull up right behind the ambulance about a meter or less behind the rear bumper, kind of like the way racing cars do (it’s called drafting) in the Daytona 500. If you let so much as a hair’s width between you and the bumper I guaranty someone in the lane next to you (or even two lanes from you) will cut you off and wiggle their way into that space to get the advantage. You slam on the brakes hoping you saw them in time before you become another accident statistic on the M10 requiring that same ambulance you were trying to draft…not for the faint of heart.
While I consider myself a pretty good commuting driver, around here in Москва I just let the ambulance pass me by…it’s not worth it…not even a little…
До следующего раза ...
Борис
On The Days Are Getting Darker and Shorter
20 октября 2011
It’s only October 20th and we’re starting to see the days getting noticeably shorter and darker. By the third week in December the sun rises at about 10:00 and sets about 16:30 making for a very short day when the sun is out.
We were told, even before we arrived here in Москва, that Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002499/) can be a real problem if you’re used to a more balanced ratio of sunlight to darkness. People in Fairbanks, Alaska are used to this but we in the lower 48 don’t seem to handle it as well (see Footnote). So, some people can get rather depressed and otherwise disrupted by not getting enough sunlight.
In a recent edition of the US Embassy newsletter readers were warned that SAD is real and lack of sunlight effects people in different and sometimes consequential ways.
I wouldn’t say that I’m looking forward to short periods of sunlight but I’m sure it will be an interesting experience…I’ll get back to you later.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
Footnote:
Latitude: 56 0 45' N Moscow, Russia
Latitude: 640 82' N Fairbanks, Alaska
Latitude: 40 0 65' N New York City
We were told, even before we arrived here in Москва, that Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002499/) can be a real problem if you’re used to a more balanced ratio of sunlight to darkness. People in Fairbanks, Alaska are used to this but we in the lower 48 don’t seem to handle it as well (see Footnote). So, some people can get rather depressed and otherwise disrupted by not getting enough sunlight.
In a recent edition of the US Embassy newsletter readers were warned that SAD is real and lack of sunlight effects people in different and sometimes consequential ways.
I wouldn’t say that I’m looking forward to short periods of sunlight but I’m sure it will be an interesting experience…I’ll get back to you later.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
Footnote:
Latitude: 56 0 45' N Moscow, Russia
Latitude: 640 82' N Fairbanks, Alaska
Latitude: 40 0 65' N New York City
On Not Getting Yelled At
19 октября 2011
When you go to local supermarkets (супермаркеты) in our neighborhood, not so much at stores in mega malls, there is a tradition (I guess it’s a tradition) that cashiers (kacca) expect you to give them exact change, or as close to it as possible. When you try to hand them a 500 ruble (500 py6) bill for an 83 py6 purchase you will get a nasty look and a nasty, scolding response – I’m thinking of one lady in particular we call the cranky kacca and try to avoid if at possible. I don’t know exactly what she’s saying yet, but I’m thinking it’s something like: “What are you doing giving me such a large bill for such a small purchase…you ignorant American…I have a register to manage here and you’re screwing things up!”
To avoid getting yelled at, especially by the cranky lady after we give her paper rubles we hold out our hand with all the change in it that we have and she sorts through it so she can to get as close to exact change as possible. We used to think it was just us ignorant Americans but as it turns out Russians do the exact same thing to avoid getting hollered at. This doesn’t usually happen at stores in bigger shopping malls. Cashiers don’t seem to mind big bills there.
We don’t know the exact origin of the cranky kacca syndrome although all of our friends report the same experience. It may have come from the Soviet days when rubles were hard to come by and big bills were uncommon and difficult to change even if you had one.
So, if you’re planning on coming here to Москва do yourself a favor when shopping…bring exact change or be prepared to get yelled at.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
To avoid getting yelled at, especially by the cranky lady after we give her paper rubles we hold out our hand with all the change in it that we have and she sorts through it so she can to get as close to exact change as possible. We used to think it was just us ignorant Americans but as it turns out Russians do the exact same thing to avoid getting hollered at. This doesn’t usually happen at stores in bigger shopping malls. Cashiers don’t seem to mind big bills there.
We don’t know the exact origin of the cranky kacca syndrome although all of our friends report the same experience. It may have come from the Soviet days when rubles were hard to come by and big bills were uncommon and difficult to change even if you had one.
So, if you’re planning on coming here to Москва do yourself a favor when shopping…bring exact change or be prepared to get yelled at.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Update on Our Elevator
October 16 2011
As I’ve mentioned our cranky Gruzinsky elevator has a mind of its own and will often take and leave you on the 9th floor even if you live on the 5th floor and push the button to go to the 1st floor. It did that to me today.
However, we learned an important strategy today. Once you’re where ever the elevator wants to stop and leave you, if you push the “Stop” button on and then off and then push the button of the floor you’d like to actually go to - IT WORKS! Live and learn.
Progress…
До следующего раза ...
Борис
However, we learned an important strategy today. Once you’re where ever the elevator wants to stop and leave you, if you push the “Stop” button on and then off and then push the button of the floor you’d like to actually go to - IT WORKS! Live and learn.
Progress…
До следующего раза ...
Борис
Thursday, October 13, 2011
The Arbat (Арбат)
14 октября 2011
The Арбат is a district in Москва not far from the Kremlin. It’s an easy trip on the Metpo (3 stops with one connection – about 25 minutes) from our apartment if you know where you’re going (see post for October 13th). The first time we decided to go to the Арбат we walked for about 4 kilometers on the wrong side of the Москва River and never made it there. On the second attempt we made it on the Metpo. I have since acquired an excellent map which has made things a lot easier to get around.
The Арбат is a long brick-paved avenue for pedestrians only. If you know about driving and parking in Москва (see previous post) you’d appreciate how nice it is to have a car-free pedestrian mall.
Walking along the Арбат feels to me like a cross between Greenwich Village along Bleeker Street and Washington Square Park and New Orleans complete with street performers doing acrobatic hip-hop. To be honest the street guys in the Village or Central park are several orders of magnitude better than the Арбат street guys although they do draw a sizeable crowd around them when they perform. One difference is the avenue is very wide, not like the streets in the Village or New Orleans. There’s also some pretty good graffiti especially on one long wall about half-way down the avenue.
There are trendy new shops as well as older more picturesque stores selling just about anything you can image. There are also many restaurants one of which we stopped at for lunch. Walking from one end to the other at a leisurely pace is a nice afternoon’s trip and a street photographer’s paradise. If you ever come to Москва put the Арбат on your list of places to visit – you won’t be disappointed.
I’ve put a slide show of scenes from the Арбат if you’re interested on my site: http://www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com/
Click on the Russia link. The file is named: arbat.exe.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
The Арбат is a long brick-paved avenue for pedestrians only. If you know about driving and parking in Москва (see previous post) you’d appreciate how nice it is to have a car-free pedestrian mall.
Walking along the Арбат feels to me like a cross between Greenwich Village along Bleeker Street and Washington Square Park and New Orleans complete with street performers doing acrobatic hip-hop. To be honest the street guys in the Village or Central park are several orders of magnitude better than the Арбат street guys although they do draw a sizeable crowd around them when they perform. One difference is the avenue is very wide, not like the streets in the Village or New Orleans. There’s also some pretty good graffiti especially on one long wall about half-way down the avenue.
There are trendy new shops as well as older more picturesque stores selling just about anything you can image. There are also many restaurants one of which we stopped at for lunch. Walking from one end to the other at a leisurely pace is a nice afternoon’s trip and a street photographer’s paradise. If you ever come to Москва put the Арбат on your list of places to visit – you won’t be disappointed.
I’ve put a slide show of scenes from the Арбат if you’re interested on my site: http://www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com/
Click on the Russia link. The file is named: arbat.exe.
До следующего раза ...
Борис
On Russian Lessons (Россия уроков)
12 октября 2011
A good friend and colleague of mine at NYU asked if Nancy and I were taking Russian lessons? Below is what I told her:
“Россия: Yes, Nancy and I are both taking a very basic Russian course at the school. The bad (плохой) news is that it meets Tuesday mornings at 7:15AM. I'm now able to read many signs and I'm getting slightly better at phrases. I can't imagine ever being even semi-fluid speaking Russian but reading is a big help and makes me a lot more comfortable traveling. I can now take the Metpo (Metro – remember: “p” is an “r”) and actually get on it knowing I’m going the right way. Before I learned the alphabet I was using tricks like when I go down this escalator “go right, up left and counting stops.” With my memory in the state it is in due to my advancing years everything gets mushed up together. So, reading signs and actually ending up where I was planning to go is a big improvement.
Nothing like getting on the Metpo, not realizing you're going in the WRONG direction, coming out the station and being TOTALLY LOST and disoriented
Been there, done that…
So, yes we're taking Russian and it's helping although Russian ain't no Spanish - it's really tough to learn.
Progress…”
До следующего раза ...
Борис
“Россия: Yes, Nancy and I are both taking a very basic Russian course at the school. The bad (плохой) news is that it meets Tuesday mornings at 7:15AM. I'm now able to read many signs and I'm getting slightly better at phrases. I can't imagine ever being even semi-fluid speaking Russian but reading is a big help and makes me a lot more comfortable traveling. I can now take the Metpo (Metro – remember: “p” is an “r”) and actually get on it knowing I’m going the right way. Before I learned the alphabet I was using tricks like when I go down this escalator “go right, up left and counting stops.” With my memory in the state it is in due to my advancing years everything gets mushed up together. So, reading signs and actually ending up where I was planning to go is a big improvement.
Nothing like getting on the Metpo, not realizing you're going in the WRONG direction, coming out the station and being TOTALLY LOST and disoriented
Been there, done that…
So, yes we're taking Russian and it's helping although Russian ain't no Spanish - it's really tough to learn.
Progress…”
До следующего раза ...
Борис
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
On Signs - Russian 101 (or even less)
11 октября 2011
OK class this is an “introductory” lesson in Russian for those of you that don’t know the language. At the moment I know about a dozen words or phrases that I can speak haltingly. I do know the Russian alphabet now (all 39 characters) so I’m better at “reading” Russian than I am speaking Russian. If you’re interested I’ve posted a brief slide show on my site (URL below - click on Russian) called russian_signs.exe. In some cases the signs will look quite familiar. In others you would have to “know Russian” the way I do. In those cases I’ve provided a translation. In some instances there is a letter-for-letter correspondence in words. In other cases the translation is an approximation. Sometimes, especially at the end of words, letters that you would expect in English aren’t present in the Russian equivalent or they are not sounded out which can be confusing at first. In other cases there just isn’t a direct translation.
In a previous post I discussed the Russian alphabet which will be confusing if English is your first language. Examples: the Russian “P” is an English “R”; a Russian “r” is an English “g”; a Russian “B” is an English “V”, etc. Actually, once you know the alphabet recognizing words isn’t that tough as long as you don’t bias yourself with English letters.
До следующего раза ...
Борис (Boris)
In a previous post I discussed the Russian alphabet which will be confusing if English is your first language. Examples: the Russian “P” is an English “R”; a Russian “r” is an English “g”; a Russian “B” is an English “V”, etc. Actually, once you know the alphabet recognizing words isn’t that tough as long as you don’t bias yourself with English letters.
До следующего раза ...
Борис (Boris)
Friday, October 7, 2011
On Eye Contact..HET! and Pushiness
7 октября 1011
My daughter Amanda has been visiting for the last 9 days and so I’ve been touring around the city with her. Manda’s back in the US now after a nice visit and so I’m back to my keyboard.
One thing you realize almost immediately in Москва is that people here make no eye contact whether it’s walking down a sidewalk, on the Metro or anywhere else. And it’s not just me. Many of our friends and colleagues have made the same observation. People look straight ahead and ignore your (at least) visual presence. And if by some chance your eyes do meet, there’s no acknowledgement. Just a stare that seems to look right through you. In the US even people you don’t know walking down the street will often nod their heads or say “hello” or “good morning”; not so in Москва.
In the US Embassy where I make at least one stop there every week (you can get jalapenos and other items you’re used to in the US but are hard/impossible to find in Москва in the commissary) it’s like a whole different world…You enter the gate manned by Russian security guards. Once you’re on the inside you’re on US soil and everyone you pass in the hallway or see at the commissary nods and usually say “hi” or “good morning.” Once you leave the Embassy and are on the outside…stone silence, looking straight ahead…again.
You get the impression that from this lack of expression Russians are cold, inhospitable people but actually you’d be wrong. When you’re in a one-on-one conversation whether it’s Russian, English or hand signals (usually it’s this one for me to date – I can’t speak Russian yet but I’m getting better at reading Russian now that I know the Cyrillic alphabet) people, like most places, are warm, friendly, engaging and very willing to help even if the directions you’re asking for are in Russian and you don’t understand a word being spoken.
We talk about this and we think this a trait left over from the Soviet era where you were afraid to speak with others thinking that you might be speaking to a government agent who might report your conversation to the authorities Especially if the conservation was uncomplimentary of the government, military or police. People minded their own business and kept out of trouble by looking straight ahead, stone silent. It’s been 20 years since this might have been a problem but I guess old habits die hard. It’ll be interesting to see if future generations demonstrate the same behavior.
The other thing that takes getting used to is that Russians in public are (physically) pushy. When they bump into you (or you them) there is no effort to say “извините” (excuse me) or even acknowledge they’ve made contact. This often happens on the Metro. The Metro tunnels in Москва are dug very deep into the ground – much deeper than you’re used to if you live or work in New York City. The up and down escalators are often times 50 – 80 meters long and very steep. And then there is the unspoken secret that everyone apparently knows but won’t acknowledge that there’s a secret Metro underneath the public Metro that Stalin build in case he and his family had to make a hasty escape. It apparently is still used by government officials today.
Any way, the lines to get on the escalators, especially during afternoon rush hour, are very long and funnel down from 5-10 people wide down to a single person. People think nothing of cutting in front of you and never politely offer you to go ahead. Shoving is common. Holding a door for the person behind you - doesn't happen. They just forge ahead bumping and shoving without even acknowledging you whether your Russian or a foreigner. “извините” doesn’t exist here either. It’s kind of like driving in Москва. The only rule there seems to be is: If there’s a space, move like hell to fill it! Getting cut off while your traveling 120 km/hr is no problem and seems to be encouraged in a vicious sort of way – and most of the time the rule rather than the exception (see previous post of driving).
You get used to this pretty quickly. It only takes a few days to stop responding to passersby whether on the sidewalk, a car or the Metro. You bump into someone or they bump into you and no response - nothing. That’s the way it is here – you get used to it…life goes on in Москва.
До следующего раза, (Until next time)
Борис (Boris)
One thing you realize almost immediately in Москва is that people here make no eye contact whether it’s walking down a sidewalk, on the Metro or anywhere else. And it’s not just me. Many of our friends and colleagues have made the same observation. People look straight ahead and ignore your (at least) visual presence. And if by some chance your eyes do meet, there’s no acknowledgement. Just a stare that seems to look right through you. In the US even people you don’t know walking down the street will often nod their heads or say “hello” or “good morning”; not so in Москва.
In the US Embassy where I make at least one stop there every week (you can get jalapenos and other items you’re used to in the US but are hard/impossible to find in Москва in the commissary) it’s like a whole different world…You enter the gate manned by Russian security guards. Once you’re on the inside you’re on US soil and everyone you pass in the hallway or see at the commissary nods and usually say “hi” or “good morning.” Once you leave the Embassy and are on the outside…stone silence, looking straight ahead…again.
You get the impression that from this lack of expression Russians are cold, inhospitable people but actually you’d be wrong. When you’re in a one-on-one conversation whether it’s Russian, English or hand signals (usually it’s this one for me to date – I can’t speak Russian yet but I’m getting better at reading Russian now that I know the Cyrillic alphabet) people, like most places, are warm, friendly, engaging and very willing to help even if the directions you’re asking for are in Russian and you don’t understand a word being spoken.
We talk about this and we think this a trait left over from the Soviet era where you were afraid to speak with others thinking that you might be speaking to a government agent who might report your conversation to the authorities Especially if the conservation was uncomplimentary of the government, military or police. People minded their own business and kept out of trouble by looking straight ahead, stone silent. It’s been 20 years since this might have been a problem but I guess old habits die hard. It’ll be interesting to see if future generations demonstrate the same behavior.
The other thing that takes getting used to is that Russians in public are (physically) pushy. When they bump into you (or you them) there is no effort to say “извините” (excuse me) or even acknowledge they’ve made contact. This often happens on the Metro. The Metro tunnels in Москва are dug very deep into the ground – much deeper than you’re used to if you live or work in New York City. The up and down escalators are often times 50 – 80 meters long and very steep. And then there is the unspoken secret that everyone apparently knows but won’t acknowledge that there’s a secret Metro underneath the public Metro that Stalin build in case he and his family had to make a hasty escape. It apparently is still used by government officials today.
Any way, the lines to get on the escalators, especially during afternoon rush hour, are very long and funnel down from 5-10 people wide down to a single person. People think nothing of cutting in front of you and never politely offer you to go ahead. Shoving is common. Holding a door for the person behind you - doesn't happen. They just forge ahead bumping and shoving without even acknowledging you whether your Russian or a foreigner. “извините” doesn’t exist here either. It’s kind of like driving in Москва. The only rule there seems to be is: If there’s a space, move like hell to fill it! Getting cut off while your traveling 120 km/hr is no problem and seems to be encouraged in a vicious sort of way – and most of the time the rule rather than the exception (see previous post of driving).
You get used to this pretty quickly. It only takes a few days to stop responding to passersby whether on the sidewalk, a car or the Metro. You bump into someone or they bump into you and no response - nothing. That’s the way it is here – you get used to it…life goes on in Москва.
До следующего раза, (Until next time)
Борис (Boris)
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Our Elevator in Москва
September 23, 2011
I’ll be putting a few pictures of the elevator in our apartment here in Москва on my Web site. As you’ll see, it dates back to the Soviet era when the building was first put up, I’m guessing in the 50’s or early 60’s. This thing is a man eater or limb snatcher and seems to have a mind of its own.
Its floor area is about 1 meter by 1 meter (actually a little less) and a little over 2 meters high. So it’s about the size of a coffin which is appropriate because when you get in it you sometimes, often times, feel like you might die – this just might be your last day!
I used to think it was some wise guy in the building who’d push all of the buttons (we have 9 floors in our building; we live on the 5th) making you stop at every floor. We realized that every so often, for no apparent reason, when you push the button for your floor all 9 light up making it a local. Sometimes only a few light up. Sometimes when you push the button to go to the ground floor it goes up. This happened to us today. We pushed the button to go down to the parking lot and it ascended to the 9th floor and just stopped. It seems to like hanging out on the 9th floor for some reason. It does this quite often. When we stopped nothing happened. The doors didn’t open and when we pushed a button to go down nothing happened either. Thinking that we were trapped we realized that neither one of us had our cells phones so it might a while before we got out. This happens in all 9 elevators in our compound and we know of people who’ve been trapped. We then pushed the door open button and to our surprise (and relief) they did! We decided to walk down the 9 flights of stairs grateful that we weren’t going to have to spend the night there. About 20 minutes later when we returned we pushed the button to call for the elevator, got in and pushed the button for the 5th floor and were delivered there – no problem. This happens often. Sometimes you’ll push the button to call the elevator and you’ll hear it groaning but it never stops at your floor...to the stairs again.
The doors of the elevator that Nancy refers to as a cranky bitch, are equal in size and come together in the center. Sometimes, but not always, when you’re half-way in the doors snap shut quickly kind of like the jaws of a man-eating shark. Sometimes it grabs your whole body, and sometimes a leg or arm gets caught. There isn’t a sensor like in modern elevators that make the doors open if something or someone gets pinched between the doors. Once you’re stuck you have to push off the doors with your full body weight to force them to open. And then there are other days when you push the button and the doors open giving plenty of time for even 2 people get in. One of these days were going to get in, see a pool of blood and wonder “Which one was it, an arm or a leg that was devoured?
About a third of the time it just stops working all together. No lights, no groaning, no nothin’ When this happens 2 guys in blue overalls come with a crowbar, force the doors open, use the crowbar to giggle something inside and everything is back to normal - no problem.
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that life here is Москва is tough when you’re new and don’t know the language. We knew this when we signed up to come here. What we didn’t know was that we’d have to do battle almost daily with an old, cranky, mind of its own, bitch of an elevator. Always the unexpected…
До следующего раза ...
Борис (Boris)
Its floor area is about 1 meter by 1 meter (actually a little less) and a little over 2 meters high. So it’s about the size of a coffin which is appropriate because when you get in it you sometimes, often times, feel like you might die – this just might be your last day!
I used to think it was some wise guy in the building who’d push all of the buttons (we have 9 floors in our building; we live on the 5th) making you stop at every floor. We realized that every so often, for no apparent reason, when you push the button for your floor all 9 light up making it a local. Sometimes only a few light up. Sometimes when you push the button to go to the ground floor it goes up. This happened to us today. We pushed the button to go down to the parking lot and it ascended to the 9th floor and just stopped. It seems to like hanging out on the 9th floor for some reason. It does this quite often. When we stopped nothing happened. The doors didn’t open and when we pushed a button to go down nothing happened either. Thinking that we were trapped we realized that neither one of us had our cells phones so it might a while before we got out. This happens in all 9 elevators in our compound and we know of people who’ve been trapped. We then pushed the door open button and to our surprise (and relief) they did! We decided to walk down the 9 flights of stairs grateful that we weren’t going to have to spend the night there. About 20 minutes later when we returned we pushed the button to call for the elevator, got in and pushed the button for the 5th floor and were delivered there – no problem. This happens often. Sometimes you’ll push the button to call the elevator and you’ll hear it groaning but it never stops at your floor...to the stairs again.
The doors of the elevator that Nancy refers to as a cranky bitch, are equal in size and come together in the center. Sometimes, but not always, when you’re half-way in the doors snap shut quickly kind of like the jaws of a man-eating shark. Sometimes it grabs your whole body, and sometimes a leg or arm gets caught. There isn’t a sensor like in modern elevators that make the doors open if something or someone gets pinched between the doors. Once you’re stuck you have to push off the doors with your full body weight to force them to open. And then there are other days when you push the button and the doors open giving plenty of time for even 2 people get in. One of these days were going to get in, see a pool of blood and wonder “Which one was it, an arm or a leg that was devoured?
About a third of the time it just stops working all together. No lights, no groaning, no nothin’ When this happens 2 guys in blue overalls come with a crowbar, force the doors open, use the crowbar to giggle something inside and everything is back to normal - no problem.
I’ve mentioned in previous posts that life here is Москва is tough when you’re new and don’t know the language. We knew this when we signed up to come here. What we didn’t know was that we’d have to do battle almost daily with an old, cranky, mind of its own, bitch of an elevator. Always the unexpected…
До следующего раза ...
Борис (Boris)
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Just Took Delivery
in Москва
September 21, 2011
Well after about 4 weeks of endless paper shuffling, multiple times back-and-forth to the US Embassy, a couple of false starts and an infinite amount of personal patience (not my strongest quality – although better than Nancy’s) I drove our new car, a 2000 Nissan Almera gray 4 door sedan out of the motor pool parking lot. I immediately drove into a gut-wrenching traffic jam that would make a hardened New York commuter cringe.
The car has a couple of dents and a few small rust spots and the interior will need a little work but for $3200 it was a steal. I drove it off to work this afternoon and instantly ran into another crushing jam-up. I had mentioned in a previous post that you can sometimes see cars stand still for multiple red-green cycles before moving a few meters. It was one of those until I got on the highway and then it was clear sailing. The ride home was a piece of cake.
The concept of synchronized traffic lights has not been embraced by Москва. It seems like someone went out of their way to make sure the lights blinked on and off randomly to maximize traffic congestion. There are many Москва police officers about, especially during rush hour, but they never seem to intervene. They just stand on the corner and take in the sight of a massive 6-lane wide tangle of cars all moving close to 0 km/hr.
The word aggressive understates Russian drivers by an order of magnitude unseen in the US. Words like viscous, brazen, maniacal and brutal seem much more appropriate. They make New York or New Jersey drivers look like little old ladies going to church on Sunday. One thing that is the same is the use of horns. There can be 10 people in front of you huddled at a red light with the guy behind you leaning on his horn, cursing you out while giving you the finger. Luckily for me, after crawling down the FDR drive in NYC for more than 20 years I ignore the jack-ass behind me just like I do in the US.
Our car has a 5-speed manual transmission but in and around Москва the last 3 speeds are wasted.
We plan on using the car mostly on weekends to explore and go out to the big malls to stock up on supplies. The Megamall we go to has a Walmart-like store although 3 times as large as we’re used to, an IKEA and a Home Depot-like store called, or at least pronounced “OBI” Once we wonder out into the suburbs I’ll let you know how it is. And yes, I did buy a GPS. We just need to find out how to input Gruzinsky in Cyrillic. If you know please call me. Stay tuned…
The car has a couple of dents and a few small rust spots and the interior will need a little work but for $3200 it was a steal. I drove it off to work this afternoon and instantly ran into another crushing jam-up. I had mentioned in a previous post that you can sometimes see cars stand still for multiple red-green cycles before moving a few meters. It was one of those until I got on the highway and then it was clear sailing. The ride home was a piece of cake.
The concept of synchronized traffic lights has not been embraced by Москва. It seems like someone went out of their way to make sure the lights blinked on and off randomly to maximize traffic congestion. There are many Москва police officers about, especially during rush hour, but they never seem to intervene. They just stand on the corner and take in the sight of a massive 6-lane wide tangle of cars all moving close to 0 km/hr.
The word aggressive understates Russian drivers by an order of magnitude unseen in the US. Words like viscous, brazen, maniacal and brutal seem much more appropriate. They make New York or New Jersey drivers look like little old ladies going to church on Sunday. One thing that is the same is the use of horns. There can be 10 people in front of you huddled at a red light with the guy behind you leaning on his horn, cursing you out while giving you the finger. Luckily for me, after crawling down the FDR drive in NYC for more than 20 years I ignore the jack-ass behind me just like I do in the US.
Our car has a 5-speed manual transmission but in and around Москва the last 3 speeds are wasted.
We plan on using the car mostly on weekends to explore and go out to the big malls to stock up on supplies. The Megamall we go to has a Walmart-like store although 3 times as large as we’re used to, an IKEA and a Home Depot-like store called, or at least pronounced “OBI” Once we wonder out into the suburbs I’ll let you know how it is. And yes, I did buy a GPS. We just need to find out how to input Gruzinsky in Cyrillic. If you know please call me. Stay tuned…
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Follow-up: Parking in Москва
September 20, 2011
For the past 2 weeks construction workers have been working on a section of road next to our apartment compound. The road is called Gruzinki. The workers have been tearing up a good bit of the sidewalk to add additional parking spaces. This of course will only attract more traffic that will further contribute to the gridlock I mentioned in the previous post.
Heavy equipment carved out the additional spaces and curbing has been installed and the areas have all been graded smooth. There is a slight bit of asphalt laid down but clearly the paving has not been finished. There are construction barriers placed in front of the new parking spaces obviously indicating (at least to me) the project is still ongoing.
As you might have guessed drivers have already wiggled between the barriers and parked and already filled the spaces. You might have also guessed they’ve parked their cars perpendicular to, diagonal to and parallel with the curb…as usual.
The addition of more parking and more congestion has certainly improved the neighborhood …gridlock persists…long live gridlock!. And of course, pedestrian traffic is now reduced by at least half…now we have sidewalk gridlock. Progress…
Heavy equipment carved out the additional spaces and curbing has been installed and the areas have all been graded smooth. There is a slight bit of asphalt laid down but clearly the paving has not been finished. There are construction barriers placed in front of the new parking spaces obviously indicating (at least to me) the project is still ongoing.
As you might have guessed drivers have already wiggled between the barriers and parked and already filled the spaces. You might have also guessed they’ve parked their cars perpendicular to, diagonal to and parallel with the curb…as usual.
The addition of more parking and more congestion has certainly improved the neighborhood …gridlock persists…long live gridlock!. And of course, pedestrian traffic is now reduced by at least half…now we have sidewalk gridlock. Progress…
Sunday, September 18, 2011
On Traffic and Parking
in Москва
September 18 2011
Many years ago when we were in Rome I used to think the traffic there was the worst I’d ever experienced. The streets were very narrow and cars drove very fast – pedestrians didn’t seem to have a chance.
In the 90’s when we when lived outside of Taipei for a little while my opinion changed. It wasn’t that cars drove fast - they couldn’t because the traffic was always a mess. No one seemed to pay much attention to rules like keeping to the right or not getting stuck in an intersection after the light changed. In fact, the only “rule” seemed to be: Whoever got there first would fill up any available space. It didn’t seemed to matter whether you were on the right or left side of the street. Sidewalks were mostly impassable for pedestrians since they are used as parking lots for motor scooters of which there are thousands - millions. At the time I think I remember hearing there were about 6 million motor scooters on the road on an island with a population of about 21 million. If you were walking you had to walk in the street because the sidewalks were always clogged with scooters.
Now that I we’re living in Москва I’ve changed my mind again. During rush hour, which seems to be most of the day, except for Sundays, streets are literally gridlocked. You can stand on the sidewalks and watch lights turn green and then red and then green again without a single car moving, making a turn or anything else. While left turns are not outlawed no one makes one because of the gridlock.
I’ve been paying special attention to these rules and behaviors because this coming Tuesday I’ll be driving the car we bought about 5 weeks ago (more on buying a car and getting a Russian driver’s license in a future post) from the US Embassy. I’m trying to figure out a route from the Embassy to our apartment compound that doesn’t require left turns. I’ll be picking the car up at 18:30 – rush hour – wish me luck…
In the 90’s when we when lived outside of Taipei for a little while my opinion changed. It wasn’t that cars drove fast - they couldn’t because the traffic was always a mess. No one seemed to pay much attention to rules like keeping to the right or not getting stuck in an intersection after the light changed. In fact, the only “rule” seemed to be: Whoever got there first would fill up any available space. It didn’t seemed to matter whether you were on the right or left side of the street. Sidewalks were mostly impassable for pedestrians since they are used as parking lots for motor scooters of which there are thousands - millions. At the time I think I remember hearing there were about 6 million motor scooters on the road on an island with a population of about 21 million. If you were walking you had to walk in the street because the sidewalks were always clogged with scooters.
Now that I we’re living in Москва I’ve changed my mind again. During rush hour, which seems to be most of the day, except for Sundays, streets are literally gridlocked. You can stand on the sidewalks and watch lights turn green and then red and then green again without a single car moving, making a turn or anything else. While left turns are not outlawed no one makes one because of the gridlock.
Parking along the street in Москва is interesting also. You can walk along the sidewalks but it often means weaving between parked cars. Parallel parking along the street does occur however among the cars parallel-parked you’ll see the nose or tail of a car wedged in at angles. Many times one or two wheels are bumped up over the curb either diagonally or perpendicularly to the curb. In some spots the entire car is parked up on the sidewalk even in parks and on what in the US would be called safety zones where two streets intersect. On my site (http://www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com/russia.htm) is a brief 5 frame slideshow showing some the parking options you have here in Москва. The file is called: parking.exe. The parking rule here seems to be “If there’s a space between cars, fill it anyway that you can – no problem.” If you live in a city like New York within an hour your windshield would be filled with so many tickets you couldn’t see through it or worse, your car would be towed to a pier along the Hudson River tickets flapping in the breeze. Not so in Москва.
I’ve been told by several people that the police can write parking tickets but they probably won’t. If they write a ticket and the recipient knows someone in the police department or government they’re afraid of being reamed out by their superiors or worse, fired.
Crossing a street in Москва can be a challenge too. At intersections and every so often along the streets are striped areas that in the US are called “safety zones” If you’re on foot and crossing in one, in theory, cars, buses or trucks are supposed to stop for you while you’re crossing. The trouble is only about 2 in 5 drivers observe this rule and speed by, if there’s no gridloack. If you cross the street elsewhere, as I’m used to doing in New York – you’re fair game – let the walker beware! Sometimes this is not a problem. If the street is in total gridlock (see above) it really doesn’t matter – just wind your way between the car bumpers and you’ll get to the other side.
Street lights take a bit getting used to here. They look the same as those in the US – red on top, orange in the middle, green below. There are also walk, don’t walk signs usually at intersections. It’s their blinking pattern you have to get used to. In New York after a few seconds of constant green there will be 10 blinks of the walk sign before the orange and then red light changes. In other cities you get 12 or 15 blinks. In Москва it’s different. After the green light is on for a few seconds the walk sign blinks twice – just 2 times – after that you’re fair game.
I’ve been paying special attention to these rules and behaviors because this coming Tuesday I’ll be driving the car we bought about 5 weeks ago (more on buying a car and getting a Russian driver’s license in a future post) from the US Embassy. I’m trying to figure out a route from the Embassy to our apartment compound that doesn’t require left turns. I’ll be picking the car up at 18:30 – rush hour – wish me luck…
Andy
Friday, September 16, 2011
Москва
On Boris and Natasha
September 16, 2011
In my introductory message yesterday from Москва I made reference to Boris and Natasha. I’m the supporting member of our team (Nancy and me) here known as a trailing spouse in the officialdom of AAS (http://www.aas.ru). By the way, I take no offense at this designation – it is precisely what I am. In that posting I said I’ve taken on the rolls of Natasha the housekeeper and Boris the chauffer (at least once we get the car) and all-round maintenance man. In using these 2 names I wanted to make it clear that I didn't us them in a mocking or disrespectful way. If fact, I have known a number of people named Natasha and Boris over the years. In the late 80’s and early 90’s we had quite a few Russian students at NYU named Natasha and Boris who were perfectly lovely people. Here in Москва I know people by these names right now.
When I was a kid growing up in the early 60’s there was a “cartoon” show on TV called “The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show” (http://www.hulu.com/rocky-and-bullwinkle-and-friends; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_Show ). Rocky was a hero-type flying squirrel and Bullwinkle was a side-kick moose. Their arch enemies were Natasha and Boris Badenov who had Russian accents, and while never stated, they were clearly supposed to be Soviet spies attempting to over-throw and outdo R & B.
On its face Rocky and Bullwinkle was a kids’ cartoon show that was somewhat like a slap-stick program something on the order of the Roadrunner and Wiley Coyote. Am I bringing back any memories for you 60-somethings? There were also side characters such as Dudley Do-right and others. In fact, the show was not a kids’ program at all but a satirical look at the relationship between the US and the then USSR. Parents, if they could bring themselves to admit it, watched the show too. If you are of this era you’ll remember the US were the good guys and the Soviets were the bad guys who always wore black as did Natasha and Boris. Recall Ronald Reagan’s “evil empire” quote when he was president.
As I got older I came to realize satire for what it is (some of my former students at NYU will attest to my use of satire on days I just didn’t think anyone was listening about anterior compartment forearm muscles) and for as long as the show aired I watched every episode as did, I suspect, a lot of grown-ups. In fact, I would watch it again and I have a little bit – you can still find references and clips on the Internet (see above). Some of the comments were and still are hilarious and biting at the same time. I’ve posted a picture of Natasha and Boris on my site if you (you know who you are) forget what they looked like.
As it turned out, Natasha and Boris were my favorite characters which is how I’ve come to use their names in my first Москва post. So as you can see I’m rather fond of the names Natasha and Boris.
Andy
When I was a kid growing up in the early 60’s there was a “cartoon” show on TV called “The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show” (http://www.hulu.com/rocky-and-bullwinkle-and-friends; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_Show ). Rocky was a hero-type flying squirrel and Bullwinkle was a side-kick moose. Their arch enemies were Natasha and Boris Badenov who had Russian accents, and while never stated, they were clearly supposed to be Soviet spies attempting to over-throw and outdo R & B.
On its face Rocky and Bullwinkle was a kids’ cartoon show that was somewhat like a slap-stick program something on the order of the Roadrunner and Wiley Coyote. Am I bringing back any memories for you 60-somethings? There were also side characters such as Dudley Do-right and others. In fact, the show was not a kids’ program at all but a satirical look at the relationship between the US and the then USSR. Parents, if they could bring themselves to admit it, watched the show too. If you are of this era you’ll remember the US were the good guys and the Soviets were the bad guys who always wore black as did Natasha and Boris. Recall Ronald Reagan’s “evil empire” quote when he was president.
As I got older I came to realize satire for what it is (some of my former students at NYU will attest to my use of satire on days I just didn’t think anyone was listening about anterior compartment forearm muscles) and for as long as the show aired I watched every episode as did, I suspect, a lot of grown-ups. In fact, I would watch it again and I have a little bit – you can still find references and clips on the Internet (see above). Some of the comments were and still are hilarious and biting at the same time. I’ve posted a picture of Natasha and Boris on my site if you (you know who you are) forget what they looked like.
As it turned out, Natasha and Boris were my favorite characters which is how I’ve come to use their names in my first Москва post. So as you can see I’m rather fond of the names Natasha and Boris.
Andy
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Moscow (Москва), Russia
September 15 2011
Well, it has obviously been a very long time since my last entry in this Blog. And, a lot has happened since the last entry. I’ve left Seton Hall University after a brief 3 year stay. Counting the 32 years I spent at NYU I decided 35 years in the university business was enough. So, as of June, 2011 I guess I have retired from university life. Nancy retired from public school teaching (Tenafly, NJ) a year before I left Seton Hall having put 36 years in and spent her first year in “retirement” planning what we’d be doing in Chapter III of our lives.
The big change for us is that we are now living in downtown Moscow, Russia for at least the next 2 years. Nancy was still interested in teaching; not so for me, so she landed a teaching job at the Anglo-American School of Moscow (www.aas.ru). AAS is affiliated with the US Embassy and many students are children of diplomats and business people working in Moscow. Children from the Canadian and British Embassies also attend AAS. The school goes from pre-K 3 years olds (this is Nancy’s program) all the way through high school which offers an international baccalaureate program. The school is an amazingly well endowed complex. I’ve posted some photos of the school if you’re interested on my Web site: http://www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com, then click on the “Russia” link.
Nancy was hired to resurrect a pre-K 3 year olds program which has been dormant for several years. She’s been developing the entire program with 2 teaching assistants. Tomorrow (Friday) will be the second full week where her kids are in school for the entire day (8:30-15:30 – note the time format). She’s already done a remarkable job although 3 years tend to wear her out more so than her 2nd graders ever did. She comes home beat every night. If you know Nancy she rarely goes to sleep before 12:30 until now – by 23:00 she’s in bed and out like a light.
As for me I’m “working” at AAS in the after-school programs. I am (will be – I start next week) teaching photography to middle and high school students (2 separate groups) and a high school woodworking class.. If you know me I’m an ardent photographer (URL above) and I’ve been a woodworker since I was in grammar school. I was, at one time a long time ago, a carpenter foreman building houses. So, I’ve pretty much got it made “teaching”. Nancy has the real job and I’ll be “teaching” what I like to do most having NOTHING to do with human anatomy or college/university kids. Because Nancy is the bread-winner of the family I have taken on the roll of Natasha the house (apartment) keeper and Boris the chauffer and all around handyman – more about this is future posts.
So here we are living in Moscow for the next 2 years. AAS has some rather liberal holidays so we plan to use Moscow as a travel hub. And, we’ll be back in the US occasionally as well.
My plan for this blog is to write about US people (us) living in Russia where very few people other than our colleagues at AAS speak English And as I think you’ll come to see the Russian culture is very different from our own making for some major (and minor) challenges. For the first few weeks we’ve been here I averaged being lost about twice a day – sometimes on the street and sometimes on the Metro (subway). Not knowing the language sure makes things exciting when you’re trying to get oriented to a new city and country
Russian is based on the Cyrillic alphabet with some letters that have English equivalents and a bunch that do not – 39 letters in all. More on the Russian language in future posts but let me give you one common example. In Cyrillic “Cnachбo” (pronounced ‘spa-see-ba”) means “thank you or thanks”. While many of the letters look like they are in English they aren’t so reading and speaking words and phrases is very tough. At the moment I have about half a dozen words/phrases that I can say/read and this includes “yes’ and “no”. The whole alphabet looks like this: А, Б, В, Г, Д, Е, Ё, Ж, З, И, Й, К, Л, М, Н, О, П, Р, С, Т, У, Ф, Х, Ц, Ч, Ш, Щ, Ъ, Ы, Ь, Э, Ю, Я so you can see I’ll be needing more than a few lessons in Russian – we start classes next Tuesday – wish us luck.
Some of the things I plan on writing about include: the Russian language, our apartment, getting a driver’s license, buying a car, parking, traveling on the Metro, getting lost, security guards, high-heels and more. Hopefully, I’ll have a lot more material to post this time around. I hope you find it interesting – we sure do and notwithstanding a lot of challenges we’re having a great time here – stay tuned…
Cnachбo,
Andy
The big change for us is that we are now living in downtown Moscow, Russia for at least the next 2 years. Nancy was still interested in teaching; not so for me, so she landed a teaching job at the Anglo-American School of Moscow (www.aas.ru). AAS is affiliated with the US Embassy and many students are children of diplomats and business people working in Moscow. Children from the Canadian and British Embassies also attend AAS. The school goes from pre-K 3 years olds (this is Nancy’s program) all the way through high school which offers an international baccalaureate program. The school is an amazingly well endowed complex. I’ve posted some photos of the school if you’re interested on my Web site: http://www.andrewmcdonoughphotography.com, then click on the “Russia” link.
Nancy was hired to resurrect a pre-K 3 year olds program which has been dormant for several years. She’s been developing the entire program with 2 teaching assistants. Tomorrow (Friday) will be the second full week where her kids are in school for the entire day (8:30-15:30 – note the time format). She’s already done a remarkable job although 3 years tend to wear her out more so than her 2nd graders ever did. She comes home beat every night. If you know Nancy she rarely goes to sleep before 12:30 until now – by 23:00 she’s in bed and out like a light.
As for me I’m “working” at AAS in the after-school programs. I am (will be – I start next week) teaching photography to middle and high school students (2 separate groups) and a high school woodworking class.. If you know me I’m an ardent photographer (URL above) and I’ve been a woodworker since I was in grammar school. I was, at one time a long time ago, a carpenter foreman building houses. So, I’ve pretty much got it made “teaching”. Nancy has the real job and I’ll be “teaching” what I like to do most having NOTHING to do with human anatomy or college/university kids. Because Nancy is the bread-winner of the family I have taken on the roll of Natasha the house (apartment) keeper and Boris the chauffer and all around handyman – more about this is future posts.
So here we are living in Moscow for the next 2 years. AAS has some rather liberal holidays so we plan to use Moscow as a travel hub. And, we’ll be back in the US occasionally as well.
My plan for this blog is to write about US people (us) living in Russia where very few people other than our colleagues at AAS speak English And as I think you’ll come to see the Russian culture is very different from our own making for some major (and minor) challenges. For the first few weeks we’ve been here I averaged being lost about twice a day – sometimes on the street and sometimes on the Metro (subway). Not knowing the language sure makes things exciting when you’re trying to get oriented to a new city and country
Russian is based on the Cyrillic alphabet with some letters that have English equivalents and a bunch that do not – 39 letters in all. More on the Russian language in future posts but let me give you one common example. In Cyrillic “Cnachбo” (pronounced ‘spa-see-ba”) means “thank you or thanks”. While many of the letters look like they are in English they aren’t so reading and speaking words and phrases is very tough. At the moment I have about half a dozen words/phrases that I can say/read and this includes “yes’ and “no”. The whole alphabet looks like this: А, Б, В, Г, Д, Е, Ё, Ж, З, И, Й, К, Л, М, Н, О, П, Р, С, Т, У, Ф, Х, Ц, Ч, Ш, Щ, Ъ, Ы, Ь, Э, Ю, Я so you can see I’ll be needing more than a few lessons in Russian – we start classes next Tuesday – wish us luck.
Some of the things I plan on writing about include: the Russian language, our apartment, getting a driver’s license, buying a car, parking, traveling on the Metro, getting lost, security guards, high-heels and more. Hopefully, I’ll have a lot more material to post this time around. I hope you find it interesting – we sure do and notwithstanding a lot of challenges we’re having a great time here – stay tuned…
Cnachбo,
Andy
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